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Chifa Madrid

Calle Ponzano 11, Madrid
Tlf: 917 52 61 06

Precio medio: 25€ – 30€

¿Crees que todo está inventado y nada te sorprende en el panorama gastronómico? Entonces ve a Sala de Despiece para comprobar que aún se puede ser innovador y dar una vuelta más al concepto de bar de toda la vida! Eso mismo hicimos nosotros, acercarnos hasta este conocido bar, con alma de restaurante, o más bien al revés, y descubrir cuáles son las claves de su éxito durante su primer año de vida.

Llegamos a las 8 en punto de la tarde y nos hicimos con las dos últimas banquetas libres, la barra estaba casi llena y en menos de 15 minutos el local parecía un auténtico tetris humano… Misión imposible encontrar un hueco en este “local” al que, no me atrevería a llamarlo bar, porque suena demasiado informal, pero tampoco lo catalogaría de restaurante, ya que todo gira en torno a una gran barra. Como su propio nombre indica, Sala de Despiece está inspirado en lo que podría ser una carnicería o incluso un matadero… paredes azulejadas blancas, ganchos metálicos donde se guardan cubiertos y servilletas, camareros con batas blancas, cajas de poliestireno recubriendo el techo… sin duda una estética rompedora y arriesgada que sirve de perfecto reclamo. Su responsable, el mallorquín Javier Bonet, gran conocedor del mundo de la hostelería.

Tras el privilegio de encontrar asiento, ¡¡llega el difícil momento de decidir!!. Verduras, pescados, carnes, huevos… una carta variada con platos que, en general, nos resultaron conocidos, así que allá vamos… La carta está escrita a mano, dando la sensación de hacerse a diario en función de lo que han encontrado con mejor pinta en el mercado, ya que la estrella de la cocina es sin duda la materia prima. Platos sencillos que evitan enmascarar el auténtico sabor de los alimentos.

Empezamos con chuletón cenital , para los que no somos expertos, se trata de carne de vaca cruda fría cortada muy muy fina, estilo carpaccio, acompañado de salsa de trufa, tomate triturado y sal maldón. Habíamos oído hablar de él antes y no quisimos perdernos la oportunidad de probarlo. Servido sobre un papel plastificado, como el que utilizan en cualquier carnicería, tiene un sabor muy suave que conjuga muy bien con la salsa tartufata. La preparación del plato tiene su miga así que es mejor dejar que te enseñen a preparar el primer trozo, el resto, es todo tuyo!!

Como nos hacemos mayores y las verduras nos gustan cada vez más, continuamos con unos pimientos verdes fritos, tal cual, pimiento de cristal frito (el típico alargado), un buen acompañamiento para cualquier cena pero la verdad es que me quedo con los de Padrón.

Para que nuestras papilas trabajasen con todo tipo de sabores, algo del mar. Pulpo a la brasa acompañado con chimichurri y salsa de alegría riojana picantísima!!!Estaba tierno pero al igual que el chuletón con un sabor demasiado sutil para mi gusto.

Por último y sin duda lo más espectacular fue el Lomo de Vaca. Nos presentan una fuente metálica con un cubo que a priori nunca hubiese dicho que era carne, pero era cierto!! Filetitos de lomo de vaca recubiertos de polvo de vinagre, polvo de tomate y de frambuesa, que a golpe de soplete va adquiriendo aspecto de solomillo. Acompañado de piparras y frambuesas fue sin duda el plato más sorprendente, por su presentación, preparación en vivo con un poco de show y por supuesto por su original sabor. Por cierto, la carne es de La Finca de Jimenez Barbero, una carne de una calidad excepcional criada en plena sierra de Madrid. Para los amantes de la carne os recomiendo una visita y comida en la propia finca en Colmenar del Arroyo, hay que concertar cita.

La gente continuaba entrando y nosotros decidimos dejar un hueco para tomarnos el postre en Muta, el nuevo local de Javier Bonet en la calle Ponzano, donde, una vez mas, deja claro su capacidad innovadora. Un local “modular” que se adapta según la ocasión del día, pero del que os hablaremos otro día… siempre hay que dejar algo para la próxima vez.

Volviendo a Sala de Despiece, diría que es, sin duda, un concepto original y con platos de buena calidad pero que en parte queda deslucido por la gran cantidad de gente que abarrota el local, llegando a ser un poco incomodo en ciertos momentos. La dolorosa, 25€ por persona incluyendo dos copas de vino Rioja.

Información:
Ponzano 11 , Madrid (Metro Alonso Cano)
Tlf: 917 52 61 06
www.saladedespiece.com
https://plus.google.com/117055223654405231532/about?gl=es&hl=es

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Srta Cuchillo Sr Cuchara
VN:R_U [1.9.22_1171]
Paladar
Variedad
Precio
Presentacion
Encanto
Estilo
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Rating: 2.9/5 (1 vote cast)
VN:R_U [1.9.22_1171]
Paladar
Variedad
Precio
Presentacion
Encanto
Estilo
Trato
Rating: 3.1/5 (1 vote cast)